Munich: Organic Ice-cream
Every organic supermarket big enough to be equipped with a freezer will sell you iced-lollies or pre-packaged cups of ice-cream, at least during the warm season. But for the real thing you need to know where to find your small scale artisanal organic ice-cream parlour. Fortunately there are sufficient options to check out for your favourite, unfortunately only a few of them sell their fare in organic cones.
Arguably the best ice-cream in town is made by former shoe-pusher Thomas Bartu and his crew in Schwabing. Just like the best ice-cream parlours in Italy they cover their 24 types of ice-cream hygienically instead of displaying them for show-off. All ingredients are listed on big and nicely layouted wallpapers, leaving no questions open for vegans or people with allergies. Children under 13 years pay less (1.30 €) for the scoop than adults (1.80 €). You can also have a good (though not organic) cup of Italian-style coffee or an organic soft-drink, and a yummy organic pizza. If you haven't had enough you can choose from an ever changing selection of Bartu ice-creams to take away in reusable containers. And the best: They don't close their shop during the cold season. On the other hand don't count on opening hours longer than the regular 10 pm.
While Thomas Bartu has been extending his sales with various pop-up stores he doesn't seem inclined to expand his business into a chain. So here was a niche which Stefano di Giglio of Del Fiore is trying to fill: He and his team started up in 2017 with three gelaterie at once, and sale of ice-cream boxes in several local organic supermarkets. While most of the ingredients were confirmed to me to be organic Del Fiore tries to hide this. Their icecream is neither certified nor do they announce its organic content. While both, the milk-based flavours and the sorbets, are extremely palatable the emphasis is on lifestyle, not on sustainability -- the Del Fiore ice-cream parlours are the only ones covered by this post where you are forced to enjoy your ice-cream in a cardboard cup with a plastic spoon as they simply do not offer eatable wafer cones. The scoop goes for 1.50 or 2 € depending on the flavour, and with one of the branches on the Gärtnerplatz party spot you have another option for a summer night organic ice-cream. The other two branches, located at the university quarter's entrance to Englischer Garten, and on Roecklplatz have more restricted opening hours.
Where would you expect organic and vegan ice-cream to go if not in the university quarter? A two-minutes walk from the Northern exit of the tube station "Universität" in the Maxvorstand neighbourhood you'll find IceDate serving date and cashew-based ice-cream varieties. I prefer their strong flavours like the chocolate varieties or wild berries; the more subtle ones like hemp or green tea still need polishing. During their winter break (November through April) their ice-cream can be had in in small cardboxes from Cafe Katzentempel. A scoop goes for 2.20 EUR, and every serving is topped with a small quantity of an additional flavour. Bad weather is no issue since they have a pleasant indoors sitting area. A mobile IceDate booth can also be found on many street festivals in the city.
During the cold season vegan food trucks take over the premise, so you still can step by and buy prepackaged IceDate ice-cream. For the winter season 2017/18 this is Querbeet Food offering organic hot chocolate and hot apple drinks as well as predominantly organic desserts Monday to Friday (and each third Saturday) 10-18. Unfortunately the waffles and the savoury snacks (wraps and pizza) aren't organic (when I stepped by only the bruschetta spread was organic, but it's worth asking).
A little further north there's also a traditional Italian ice-cream parlour near Elisabethplatz square: Trampolin.All of their dairy ice-creams are made with organic milk. Apart from standard varieties like vanilla or chocolate they also offer less common flavours like guava or dried prunes and lavender, the scoop for 1.50 EUR. Unfortunately the place is closed from late autumn through spring, but on warm crowded summer evenings they often keep open significantly longer than the announced 10 pm. In addition to ice-cream they also sell Italian-style coffee.
In the neighbourhood of Haidhausen you have the choice of three possible targets: Cosy though buzzing Cafe Reichshof a five minutes brisk walk from Ostbahnhof station offers home-made ice-cream spring through early autumn, though you may be tempted to indulge yourself in one of their gorgeous cakes instead (or have both?) The stuccoed ceiling with a candelabra play well together with the wooden shelves of the bakery display, making for an inviting yet not overwhelming interior. During the warm season you may prefer to sit outside facing relaxing Bordeauxplatz. The cafe is the only sunday-open branch of Bäckerei Neulinger, an organic bakery with two older shops in the neighbourhood of Neuhausen and a new cafe cum bakery located in the former meat-packing district, the Schlachthofviertel. Be prepared to queue on nice-weather days, but since the service is swift, efficient and friendly waiting will usually take shorter time than expected. The Neulinger's ice-cream season also ends in autumn. A scoop goes for 1.30 EUR, and since the shop participates in the Brot am Haken ("bread on the hook") campaign you may buy a coffee, ice-cream, bread or cake voucher for someone in need as you go. During the high season ice-cream to take away is occasionally sold in nice returnable preserving glasses, with a deposit of 2 EUR.
Less frequented and just around the corner of Rosenheimer Platz you will find tiny Cafe Plaisir serving organic crepes, cakes, cookies, tin soups and coffee drinks apart from usually eight types of ice-cream (1.20 EUR the scoop). During the cold season they have home-made chocolates, and you might ask for the one type of ice-cream still hidden away in the freezer. Be patient and kind if the serving personnel does not respond immediately -- the shop is a social enterprise run by longterm-unemployed persons.
If you fancy an ice-cream during your evening stroll head for fancy True & 12 opposite the Gasteig cultural center. Their milk comes from a family-run organic farm half an hour away by urban train (plus five minutes by bus plus half an hours walk), and other ingredients like hazelnuts and eggs are organic, too. All non-organic ingredients are of course all natural, and the result is lip-smacking delicious. They come up with interesting flavour combinations like lavender and cassis (dubbed "Haidhausen"), the scoop for 1.60 EUR, and for an additional euro it will occasionally be served in a hand-rolled cinnamon-flavoured cone, so ask for availability! To much regret also this place is closed from end of October to mid of March; in 2017 Oct 22 is their last day.
In Neuhausen organic ice-cream to go can also be had from Cafe Ruffini, described in my restaurant post.
The classical Italian ice-cream parlour -- ice-cream to go, and not much ado -- you'll find with Gelateria Artefredda in Giesing near Ostfriedhof on busy Tegernseer Landstraße. On the right-hand side of their display you have their organic varieties for 1.50 EUR the scoop -- about eight ones to choose from. The unpretentious eco-styled walls make it a light and pleasant place to have a short coffee break. Closed during the cold season, usually during November through March. On bad weather days they often open up to a quarter of an hour past their announced opening time, nice weather provided they will often keep open longer than announced.
If you happen to be on Viktualienmarkt during the warm season step by Beim Trübenecker, the organic grocery booth offering the best selection of organic fruit and greens on the market. On the Southern side of their booth you can choose from six to eight fully organic, innovative and extremely palatable diary as well as vegan ice-cream varieties to go, made by an artesanal ice-cream maker in the vicinity of Munich. The scoop goes for 1.70 EUR.
In addition Munich hosts a franchise of the French-Italian ice-cream chain Amorino in the Karstadt department store's window front a few steps outside Hauptbahnhof. They claim to use organic eggs and otherwise only natural ingredients, and the ice-cream, though rather expensive, is indeed delicious and lovingly made into flower-shapes. The menu promises two certified organic sorbets (chocolate and a mixed citrus fruit variety).
If you happen to attend a street festival in Munich like the biannual Streetlife on Leopoldstraße or the annual Munich Sports Festival on Königsplatz watch out for a pink-blue food truck selling Cramer's Speiseeis in cones. The Cramers run a family-driven organic bakery cum pastry shop in Gauting near Munich, where they also make their ice-cream, so be brave when you're in the vicinity and give their spicy ginger or chocolate-chili varieties a try.
- Bartu Bioeismanufaktur, Wilhelmstraße 23 (corner Kaiserstr.), open daily 11-21
- Del Fiore Gelato Gärtnerplatz, Gärtnerpl. 1, daily 9:30-20, in summer 9-22 or later depending on the weather
- Del Fiore Gelato Kaulbach, Kaulbachstr. 37, daily 12-20
- Del Fiore Gelato Roecklplatz, Ehrengutstr. 18, daily 12-20(22 in summer)
- IceDate, Amalienstr. 91, daily 12-22 during the warm season
- Trampolin, Nordendstr. 62, daily 11:30-22 during the warm season
- Cafe Reichshof/Bäckerei Neulinger Haidhausen, Wörthstr. 17, Mon-Sat(Sun) 6:45(8)-19(18). The shop is always closed between December, 25 and January, 6
- Neulinger Brot & Feinbäckerei Neuhausen, Volkartstr. 48, Mon-Fri(Sat) 6:30-18(12)
- Neulinger Brot & Feinbäckerei Neuhausen, Volkartstr. 11, Mon-Fri(Sat) 6:30-18:30(14)
- Neulinger Brot & Feinbäckerei Schlachthofviertel, Adlzreiterstr. 21, Mon-Fri(Sat) 6:30-18(14)
- Cafe Plaisir/Unser kleiner Eisladen, Balanstr. 12, Mon-Sat 10-20
- True & 12, Rosenheimer Str. 14, opening hours March: daily 12-20, April/May daily 12-21, plus Fri/Sat 21-22 when the weather is nice, June: Sun-Thu(Fri-Sat) 12-21(22), July-August(September-October) daily 12-22(21) nice weather provided (opening hours can vary, closed in winter)
- Gelateria Artefredda, Tegernseer Landstr. 38, Mar&Sep: Mon-Sat(Sun) 12(13)-19, Apr&Sep: Mon-Sat(Sun) 12(13)-20, May through Aug: Mon-Fri(Sun) 11(12)-22, closed November through mid of March
- Beim Trübenecker, Viktualienmarkt, part III/boothes no. 32 and 33, Mon-Fri(Sat) 7-18:30(17), summer only
- Amorino, Schützenstr., Mon-Sat 11:30-20
- Backhaus Cramer, Starnberger Str. 18 Gauting, Mon-Fri(Sat) 6:30-18:30(13), Sun 7-13
Ceased to exist
The following places do no longer exist, even though you still might find references to them on the web:
- Amorino, Wiener Pl.
- Ella Bartu within Eis, Eisbaby installation by Daniel Man in front of Lenbachhaus art museum, Luisenstr. 33
- Bartu c/o Feinkost Käfer, Prinzregentenstr. 73
- Jack&Eddy's, Pestalozzistr. 7 (organic frozen yoghurt)
- Naturale Bio Eisdiele, Winthirstr. 9b
2017-12-11 21:00:00 [Munich, Haidhausen, Schwabing, organic, ice-cream, coffee, cafe, Italian] link
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