Heidelberg: Sustainable shopping

As a tourist you will most certainly head for the old town, walking down the Hauptstraße ("main street") pedestrian street. While the western part of this street is inhabited by the ever-boring major chains, the eastern part with its small-scale owner-run shops is definitely worth a shopping spree, preferably to enterprises striving to sell sustainable, often fairly traded goods.

Looking for dedicated environment-friendly kitchen and bathroom utensils, toys, fashion accessories, stationary, gifts or design items you must not miss out the green design department store GOODsHOUSE a little west of Schiffsgasse. The shop itself isn't visible from the main street -- walk down a little aisle into the backyard to find a lovingly arranged two-storey shopping paradise. The staff is friendly and helpful, yet not intrusive and will happily offer to order items not in stock.

A few steps further west, at the corner with Heumarkt an equally carefully designed cosmetics boutique dubbed Wolkenseifen ("cloud soaps") is the flagship store of a local near-natural cosmetics manufacturer. In addition you'll find (certified) organic and natural cosmetics brands usually not to be found in your nearest organic supermarket -- among them Chia, Madara, or Khadi --, and a great selection of zero waste body care like hair and body soaps, solid shampoos or solid toothpaste.

Fair and slow fashion seems to be quite strong in Heidelberg where even otherwise conventional clothes boutiques like Bofinger in the main street trade in fair and organic labels like Armedangels. My stay was too short to pay a visit to all the places on my short list, but I managed to have a glimpse inside Tutta Natura selling sustainably produced French shoes and women's clothes for lovers of classic eco-design in the Plöck running parallel with the main street.

November 2018 saw the re-opening of former fair fashion store cum cafe Friedrich as a Glore concept store offering organic fashion for all, women, men and kids as well as a small selection of organic body care.

Heidelberg is home to a number of community-driven one-world shops selling fairly traded fashion accessories, household items, dry food, sweets, coffee and tea, the latter often certified organic. One of them is Una Tierra at the market place Neuenheim, another one the Weltladen in the old town with a small cafe, offering fairly traded coffee drinks, cocoa or tea while you crawl the shop or let you inspire by the bookshelf.

• GOODsHOUSE, Hauptstr. 113a (backyard), Mon–Fri(Sat) 11–19(18)
• Wolkenseifen, Hauptstr. 135, Mon–Sat 10–19
• Tutta Natura, Plöck 27, Tue–Fri(Sat) 12(11)–18(15)
• Glore, Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1, Mon–Fri(Sat) 10:30–19(18)
• Weltladen Heidelberg-Altstadt, Heugasse 2, Mon–Sat 11–18
• Una Tierra, Lutherstr. 13a, Tue–Fri(Sat) 10(9)–18:30(14)

Here's a list of shops which I had on my list for research but didn't manage to visit myself. Let me know about your experience!

Dresden: Sustainable shopping

Dresden's Wilhelminian neighbourhood of Neustadt is dominated by independent shops and venues, many of them run by female entrepreneurs as recently documented by an art project of local photographer Christine Starke. So it comes as little surprise that it is here where you have the best chance to discover a lot of gems, driven in accordance with the personal principles of the shop keeper which often include social and environmental aspects. Keep your eyes open, and you will discover a lot more than I have to suggest here.

• Herbalists and beauty
• Bicycles
• Jewellery
• Fair trade
• Fashion
• Babies and toddlers
• Closed shops

Herbalists and beauty

The old town does not have much to offer in terms of independent and surprising shops, and the Altmarkt-Galerie mall is as boring as these shopping centres usually are. A notable exception is the Sonnentor shop directly located at the mall's entrance at Postplatz, next to the tram-stop at Wallstraße. Franchises of this Austrian producer of organic and fairly traded herbs, teas, condiments, bodycare products and spices are usually located in malls or main shopping areas, neatly designed heavens offering products that are good for both, you, and the farmers and producers involved when you're in the mood for shopping.

If you're on the outlook for herbs, remedies, bodycare and food items based on ingredients described by medieval healer nun Hildegard of Bingen pay a visit to the Marone herbalist shop on Bautzner Landstraße directly located at the east-bound tram stop Pulsnitzer Straße. Not all of the products on sale (which among others include chestnut products and a small selection of biodynamic wine) in this small specialist shop are certified organic though.

Leaving the tram tracks and entering the more pedestrian-friendly quartier natural and organic bodycare products can be found at the Touch of Nature beauty parlour cum shop in Böhmische Straße east of Rothenburger Straße. Note that this shop is closed on weekends.

If you take a little detour into Rothenburger Straße – near the crossing with Bautzner Straße you'll find Lipfeins Lieblinge (formerly dubbed "O'Shea"), the factory outlet of a small local manufacturer of vegan natural lip care. But it's more than that: In addition to their own products the shop sells and nicely presents natural body care products of other small-scale producers who use organic and fairly traded ingredients. A real gem to discover new products!

For Indian-style and ayurvedic tea, chai mixtures or herbal teas head for the Indian Shop next to the organic fashion boutique Populi described further down. Unfortunately this owner-driven Indian convenience store isn't generally organic, and since its webpage disappeared I'm not quite sure whether it still exists as I hadn't sufficient time to check it at my last brief stay.

Bicycles

A few steps from Touch of Nature there's a second hand bicycle shop cum workshop, Elbcycles, where you can buy a used or recycled bike if you're staying longer, or get your own one fixed.

Jewellery

If you follow Böhmische Straße until it ends at Alaunstraße. A luminous blue wall indicates the location of the Geldschneider & Co. steam-punk workshop. Among others you will find beautiful jewellery made from recycled parts of abandoned analog wrist watches. The place has somewhat erratic opening hours, so step by when nearby (if you need to plan ahead: Saturdays seem a safe bet). If closed during regular German shop opening hours you may call the phone number given on the entrance door.

Fair trade

As in many other German cities the first address for colourful gifts as well as organic sweets, spices and condiments are fair-trade shops founded as grassroots activities by Christian parish members in accordance with the conciliar process of mutual commitment (covenant) to justice, peace and the integrity of creation (JPIC). As the host for pioneering regional ecumenical plenums in 1989 and 1990 the city of Dresden has been playing an important role in this process. The spirit of this movement lives on in local fair trade initiatives like Quilombo which for almost 25 years had run a fair-trade shop in the entrance area of Dreikönigskirche in Hauptstraße which played host to the first democratically elected local parliament in Saxony after East Germany's peaceful implosion in 1989. Today the initiative still has a shop in the neighbourhood of Löbtau while their former place in the "Haus der Kirche" ("house of the church") has been converted into fair-trade Cafe Dreikönig.

Sharing their roots with the Quilombo NGO the team of Cafe Aha opposite Kreuzkirche runs a fair-trade shop in the heart of the city. It is located in the basement of the cafe and offers an impressive selection of fairly-traded gifts, body care and dry goods. This initiative also runs a fair-trade ...

Fashion

... boutique, Aha Naturtextilien, on Hauptstraße, offering a great selection of fairly traded fashion made from natural materials. Here you will also find a good selection of stationary, jewellery, eatable fair-trade goods and more. By the way: the name "Aha" is an abbreviation for "trade/act differently" ("anders handeln" in German), and implies a huge effort in not only selling fairly traded goods but offering fair conditions to their own employees.

Another centrally located fair-trade shop specializing in fashion and household accessories as well as coffee and chocolates is Contigo near the central train station.

For more ethically produced and sustainable cocooning items visit Tranquillo, a likewise colourful fashion-and-things boutique cum fashion label in the Neustadt neighbourhood, at the crossroad Louisenstraße/Rothenburger Straße. They produce their own women fashion entirely made from organic textiles focussing on basic colours -- if you like Aha Naturtextilien don't miss this one. There's also an outlet in Louisenstraße where you can find bargain buys and (even further west, behind the Äußere Neustadt) a sustainable furniture store which opens on Fridays and Saturdays only.

Dresden's first fashion boutique exclusively selling fairly produced clothing from fairly traded, organically grown materials is dubbed Populi and can be found at the Western end of Louisenstraße, just before you reach the tram tracks of Königsbrücker Landstraße. Both, streetware, denim and designer labels can be found here, for men and women. The interior of the shop is to a great deal made from upcycled furniture.

Students and nerds find fairly traded organic cotton t-shirts and sweaters with unique scientific prints at Unipolar, and everyone else organic streetware for both, men and women, aside fairly traded and sustainably produced accessories and kitchen items. This small, Dresden-based fashion label is the brain-child of a former physics student, and one remaining outlet in addition to the on-line shop. The original store between the Bahnhof Mitte train station and the "Carl Maria von Weber" College of Music does no longer exist. (But if you already are here: the VG warehouse next to this old location has a well-assorted organic fashion section upstairs.) The remaining Unipolar shop is located in the Neustadt neighbourhood and can easily be found by spotting a bath tub opposite a tram stop in Rothenburger Straße.

Ever fancied a beautiful bespoke suit or shirt made from natural materials? Make sure to not walk past a real gem on Bautzner Straße at tram stop Pulsnitzer Str.: Hüpenthal's gentlemen's tailor workshop does neither have a web site nor any other appearance on the internet. The clean and functional studio offers a selection of pret-a-porter items, so the threshold is low to step by even if you've never been to a bespoke tailor's. Everything is hand-made from linen, silk, cotton and wool, both evening and casual wear. Some of the linen is even woven in the greater vicinity of Dresden, in the region of Niederlausitz near the border to Poland. If you take the opportunity to hear a classical concert in Dresden chances are high to meet musicians wearing shirts by Herr Hüpenthal which, although custom-made are recognisable by their unique signature collars. Prices for men shirts start approximately at well invested 175 EUR, and cards are not accepted. The opening hours listed below usually apply but since the shop is his workshop you may be lucky enough to find him at work on Mondays and Saturday afternoons, too.

Babies and toddlers

Sustainable toys can be found further west at LouisdoOr, just opposite of Populi. This charming, owner-run shop also sells organic clothing for babies and toddlers. The somewhat erratic opening hours allow the owner to take out her dog, so when the door is closed during regular working hours take a look at the shops nearby and come back a little later.

If you are on the look-out for beautiful, not overly sweet organic fashion for toddlers and smaller children or simply for beautiful organic garments step by Elvida in Louisenstraße approximately opposite Planwirtschaft pub and cafe. There you'll find the small flagship store of a Dresden-based sustainable kids fashion label – and a source for organic sewing things.

• Die Marone, Bautzner Str. 46, Mon,Tue,Thu,Fri(Wed) 10(9)–18(13), closed July 15 through 24 and August 5 through 21, 2022
• Indian Shop, Louisenstr. 3, Mon–Fri(Sat) 11(10)–19(14) (might be closed as of July, 2022, but I cannot confirm this yet)
• Touch of Nature, Böhmische Str. 9, Mon,Wed–Fri 11–19
• Lipfeins Lieblinge, Rothenburger Str. 1, Thu–Fri(Sat) 11–18(16)
• Sonnentor, Altmarkt-Galerie ground floor, Webergasse 1 (entrance from Postplatz), Mon–Sat 10–20
• Elbcycles, Böhmische Str. 3, Mon–Tue,Thu–Fri(Sat) 12(11)–19(15), special covid-19 opening hrs
• Geldschneider & Co., Alaunstr. 29, usually Mon–Sat during the day
• Quilombo, Schillingstr. 7, Mon–Sat 9–19
• Laden Aha, Kreuzstr. 7, Mon–Sat 10–18 8
• Aha Naturtextilien, Obergraben 2 (corner Hauptstr.), Mon–Sat 10–18
• Tranquillo, Rothenburger Str. 43, Mon–Fri(Sat) 14(10)–19(18)
• Tranquillo Outlet, Louisenstr. 45, Mon–Fri(Sat) 11(10)–19(18)
• Tranquillo Furniture Warehouse, Marta-Fraenkel-Str. 1, Fri(Sat) 14(11)–19(16)
• Populi, Louisenstr. 3, Mon–Fri(Sat) 11(10)–19(16)
• Unipolar Neustadt, Rothenburger Str. 38, Mon–Fri(Sat) 11–19(18)
• Hüpenthal Boutique, Bautzner Str. 63, Tue–Fri(Sat) 10–18(13)
• Elvida, Louisenstr. 29, Mon(Fri) 10–18(15),Tue–Wed(Thu) 16(12)–18, Sat 11–14
• LouisdoOr, Louisenstr. 4, Sat 10–14, Mon–Fri 10–12:30,13–15:30,16–18

Ceased to exist

The following places shut down, so don't be mislead when you find references to them on the web:

• Quilombo, Haus der Kirche, Hauptstr. 23 (fair-trade)
• Baum&Wolle, Alaunstr. 13c (fashion)
• Ex Animo, Martin-Luther-Str. 17 (fashion and things)
• Invito, Alaunstr. 20 (fashion)
• Unipolar Mitte, Jahnstr. 1
• Un-Kraut, Martin-Luther-Pl. 12 (herbs and spices)
• Vivobarefoot, Hauptstr. 14