Göttingen: Zero Waste

While thriving during the covid-19 pandemics, package-free supermarkets have been facing hard times thereafter, and in big cities with high rents we've seen a wave of shop closings. Even the beautiful grocery Wunderbar unverpackt ("Wonderfully devoid of packaging") which opened in May 2018 wasn't able to survive and closed for good in 2023.

To refill dry food supplies from gravity bins pay a visit to the Naturalia grocery at Wöhlerplatz, a traditional crammed organic corner shop which offers a small assortment of dry food (pasta, cereals, nuts, rice and the like) in self-service dispensers. Apart from this eggs, bakery items, fruits, veges and cheese can be taken home in your own jars and bags. In addition the place is also a tea shop – so bring your tea boxes for refill. If you stay in town for a longer period of time consider to collect stamps on the Göttingen Climate Card ("Klima-Karte") here each time you use your own bag or box. When you collect 16 stamps from a number of (not necessarily organic) shops, market boothes and restaurants in town you will be rewarded with a climate-positive goodie bag and earn support for climate projects in town. The shop-keeper seems to run a small farm herself as she asks for apologies in case she'd appear in the shop past 10 am, to help sheep giving birth.

The second organic grocery to collect Climate Card stamps from is the Bioladen an der Burgstraße, a dedicated anti-fascist neighbourhood grocery next to Cafe Inti. A few years ago this cosy full-retailer replaced a branch of an organic bakery based in Klein Lengden with shops both there and in Göttingen, delivering to many organic markets in the greater region. The Sunday-open place has the air of a traditional organic corner shop and makes an extra effort to offer products packaged in returnable glasses, among others wine gums. More liquorice and jellies can be bought by the piece, and together with the cheese and bakery counter (which fills about half of the entire location), the racks with fruit and veges and the dairy products and drinks in deposit glasses and bottles my estimate is that more than half of the goods can be bought without disposable packaging. You can fetch a coffee in your own mug or a deposit cup.

The shop also has an innovative approach to keep away wasps from ripe fruits: small trays filled with over-ripe fruit juice on a window sill a little apart from the entrance attract the insects which are occupied there as long as you don't disturb them.

The second and much larger organic supermarket in the inner city belongs to the Alnatura chain. Although it doesn't have an explicit focus on zero waste the staff at the bakery cum cheese counter is happy when you come with your own boxes and bags, and there's a good selection of products in deposit glasses and bottles. There are no cafe tables and chairs, but you can take out coffee drinks and tea (in deposit mugs) and choose from a great selection of sandwiches. Even in the evening hours you will usually still find a sandwich.

Geismar and Diemarden

The Gemüseladen in the Western suburb of Geismar, near the church of St. Martin, is not participating in the Klima-Karte scheme. However, this organic greengrocery is offering an abundance of regional produce which you can take home in your own bags.

On the other side of the street you'll find Le Bol, a bio-dynamic organic French-German artisanal sourdough bakery – according to locals making the best bread in town. Needless to say that you can come with your own bag and that the bread keeps fresh much longer than ordinary fare. Given that the baker has to rise early so you can have fresh bread in the morning, opening hours are restricted to the morning ihours except on Thursdays.

If you are on a bike tour or stay in town a little longer consider a visit to the Naturmilchhof Gartetal organic dairy farm. To get their continue from Geismar to the village of Diemarden about four to five kilometres away. Buying fresh milk, oat drink, yogurt, kefir or cheeses from the farm's own dairy is unfortunately somewhat inconvenient as you must register at the farm's web shop to use their self-service farmshop guarded by surveillance cameras. Then you would use the computer inside the shop to register your purchase, and your debt will be detracted from your bank account. I haven't checked whether this works with any European bank account. All liquid and semi-liquid products come in returnable plastic bottles and jars with a deposit. The shop is closed on Sundays and public holidays.

Non-food

Household items supporting a package-free lifestyle can be found at the factory outlet of the eco postal order shop Waschbär near Geismartor. Here you may also refill cleaning agents, liquid soap and detergents to get a stamp on your Climate Card. Unfortunately the shop is going to close for good by the end of October, 2024.

Tea

In the 1990ies owner-driven tea shops offering a great selection of loose-weight teas, herbal and fruit blends were quite a thing, and fortunately they have been surviving in Göttingen so far. With the years, their assortment of organic teas has increased, and I haven't found one who refused to fill my tea boxes (even though you may ask for it verbosely).

The Teehaus Kluntje isn't just a nice shop for teas and everything you need for tea ceremonies or small recreational everyday tea breaks, it also serves you a good cup of tea. However, it's a bit too focused on being a gift shop if you prefer tea shops with a reduced atmosphere.

Personally I prefer the wooden interior of Teehaus Schmidt which nicely brings out the timber frames of the old house. Here the focus is clearly on tea and spices. An interesting fact: The place was a students' start-up in the 1970ies.

In a city with as many tea lovers you won't be surprised to find a branch of the Tee Gschwendner franchise. Just like other franchises of this brand they sell more conventional than organic teas, but the shop assistants will show the right types when you ask for "bee-o" (bio) teas and place your tea box on the till.

Fortunately Göttingen still has many cosy carefully curated owner-driven shops. When I tried to visit the traditional confectioners' shop cum delicatessen Alfred Ewert on recommendation by locals it was too late to find it open, and the products on display in the shop's windows weren't organic. So I decided not to list it here. However, pink@norden.social recommended it as a veritable loose tea shop, so I suggest that you pay a visit and check for organic labels and the "bio" keyword.

• Naturalia Naturkost, Kurze Str. 17, Mon-Fri(Sat) 10–18(13)
• Bioladen an der Burgstraße, Burgstr. 18, Mon–Fri(Sat) 8:30(8)–18(14), Sun 9:30–11
• Alnatura, Lange-Geismar-Str. 61–64, Mon–Sat 8–20
• Der Gemüseladen, Bäckergasse 1b, Geismar, Mon–Fri(Sat) 8–18(13), Sat in July/August 8–12
• Le Bol, Mitteldorfstr. 9, Tue–Wed,Fri–Sat(Thu) 9(15)–12(18)
• Naturmilchhof Gartetal, Schwarze Gasse 6, Mon–Sat 8–18
• Waschbär, Kurze Geismar-Str. 5–7, Mon–Fri(Sat) 10–19(18)
• Teehaus Kluntje, Lange-Geismar-Str. 33, Mon–Fri(Sat) 9:30–18(15:30)
• Teehaus Schmidt, Barfüßer Str. 6, Tue–Fri(Sat) 10–18(15)
• Tee Gschwendner, Kornmarkt 9, Mon–Fri(Sat) 10–18(17)
• Alfred Ewert, Weender Str. 84, Mon–Fri(Sat) 9:30–18:30(14)

Closed

• Wunderbar unverpackt, Groner-Tor-Str. 22 (there's still a shop in Braunschweig)

Göttingen: Organic coffee bars and restaurants

Cities with major universities have had organic shops long before the arrival of the big organic supermarkets, and Göttingen doesn't make an exception: Probably the eldest still existing organic cafe in town is Café Inti, serving soups, salads and bowls. Needless to say that they offer Italian-style fairly traded coffee drinks (with organic milk from a local farm if you like) and yummy cakes, and what's even better: They serve breakfast until 2pm, and the waitress proudly ensured me that everything was organic. A welcoming place all day around if you like places with a liberal collegiate atmosphere whereof there are quite a number in the city.

At the market place Am Wochenmarkt climb the stairs up to lokal neun, a dinner restaurant using preferably organic ingredients from the region. It serves organic burgers and steaks, but also vegan dishes. A pleasant place to enjoy a summer evening on the roof terrace, but unfortunately the cocktails aren't organic. Note that the kitchen already closes at 9pm.

Theatre, comedy, concerts – the Apex near Deutsches Theater stages an interesting blend of cultural entertainment, predominantly in German. From the street the place run by a non-profit association is barely visible if you aren't aware of the address, and I was surprised to find such a spacious rustic restaurant (instead of the small theatre bar I had imagined) after passing the hallway.

The place is neither fully organic nor certified, but many ingredients come from organic farms and producers in the region. Where else would you expect to find a comforting home-made chicken soup (made from organic chicken)? On the menu of the week I was there, I also found wild boar or the yummy shashuka with organic eggs and tomatoes (which I had). In addition to the weekly changing seasonal menu there's a bunch of rustic German or Mediterranean starters and main dishes served regularly, some of them suitable for vegans. The tasty home-made white bread made from organic wheat tasted home-made rather than made by a professional artisanal baker. There's a selection of organic drinks, unfortunately none of the wines. The service (many of them seemed like students) was swift and attentive, and the guests mainly local, of a broad range of ages, my guess would be between 30 and 70.

Film enthusiasts will love the Méliès arthouse cinema inside a former Baptist church on Bürgerstraße. But whether you want to have a snack prior to the film or a simple mediterranean dinner the Bistro Cichon im Méliès is the perfect place if you like cafe bars decorated by film lovers. During the warm season you can sit in the beautiful garden – when it's raining there's also a small greenhouse to keep you dry, You will be served but you better place your order inside. There are two entraces to the bistro: one through the cinema from Bürgerstraße or a flight of stairs at the rear of the house when you come from Gartenstraße via a parking lot. The stairs at the rear facing the garden lead to the kitchen.

While the (vegetarian) food, sweets and non-alcoholic beverages are predominantly organic the selection of organic wines is surprisingly small. The focus is on snacks from the Mediterranean, tasty but not necessarily authentically spiced. If you go for the soup of the day you will be served a filling and comforting serving at a more than fair price. Unfortunately the place – just as the "lokal neun" – does neither serve food nor coffee on Sundays and Mondays. However, also on these two days in keeps open to sell prepackaged organic sweet and savoury snacks and cold drinks before the film screenings.

Another vegetarian, vegan-friendly place is the P-Café in the backyard of St. Nikolai church. Here they are highly attentive to allergies, lactose intolerance and gluten-free diets, and wheelchair users are kindly asked to ring the bell at the main entrance facing the narrow lane part of the Nikolaikirchhof. And the best of all: it's 100 percent organic – warm and cold drinks as well as the cakes, breakfast items, salads, soups, sandwiches and wraps. The pleasantly decorated place hosts game nights (Göttingen has quite a tradition for playing board and card games in good old analogue fashion) as well as small concerts and musical sessions, readings and other cultural events. During the warm season you can sit outside, enjoying the church yard. And the best: The place keeps open on Sundays.

Coffee places

If all you want is a coffee shot head for the city's only organic coffee roasters', Contigo. This fair-trade shop not only sells colourful gifts, fashion items, jewelry, organic coffee and chocolates, but sports a beautiful cafe corner serving organic coffee drinks and refreshments. If you choose a capuccino, flat white, latte or espresso macchiato with cow or oat milk, the milk comes in returnable cans from the Naturmilchhof dairy farm about half an hour by bike away.

The farm also supplies milk to the Christian charity cafe Hope or Cafe Hoffnung next to St. Mary's church (Sankt Marien). You can also have organic fruit and soft drinks, but the cakes do not contain organic ingredients. Be aware of that there's an evangelical denomination behind this place.

Personally I prefer the Weltladencafé fair-trade shop cum café near St. Nikolai church: a little shabby and focused on being a social meeting place it doesn't offer as much handicraft as other fair-trade shops. Even without an own roastery it's more café than shop, a homely-bohemian living room with outdoor seating on the footpath when the weather is nice. The place is run by a collective of volunteers, so be nice even when the service isn't swift: They aren't paid to serve you.

Come by for a recreational coffee break with coffee from a steam-driven espresso machine. You may choose between milk, soy or oat drink, all organic. Occasionally home-made vegan cakes are being served: Since they are home-made by volunteers I wouldn't expect that they are always made from predominanly organic ingredients. Unfortunately they don't serve savoury snacks, but you may of course buy some fairly traded nuts or chips and consume them at the café.

Missing a traditional Italian coffee? At the Preferita ice-cream parlour the coffee tastes authentic, even though the place isn't run by Italians. Ordering a caffè affogato (espresso with cream ice-cream) doesn't require an explanation. The owners plan to extend the place to a pizzeria, but were still looking for a pizzaiolo in September, 2024.

Tourists do not necessarily frequent the Südstadt of Göttingen, but if your bus stops at Lotzestraße you may decide to leave it for a coffee at the Cichon Wein & Delikatessen delicatessen and wineshop. Not everything here is organic, but the owners take pride in carefully selecting artisanal wines, cured meat, cheese, oil, vinegar, preserves and more. You may also by buy organic sweets and chocolates. It's the same people who run the Bistro at the Mèliès cinema.

At the main train stations of bigger German cities you will usually find a franchise serving coffee drinks made with organic milk, either a "Coffee Fellows" shop or, as in Göttingen, a branch of the organic porridge brand "Haferkater". If you have sufficient time insist on having your coffee in an earthenware cup on the spot; returnable cups for a coffee on the go unfortunately require registration with an app. The shop's comparably liberal opening hours make it a good last resort for a healthy sandwich on Sundays, early mornings or weekdays after 6pm. However, if you have sufficient time on a weekday, you may rather opt for a without doubt 100 percent organic sandwich from either, the Bioladen in der Burgstraße or Alnatura.

• Café Inti, Burgstr. 17, daily 10–18
• lokal neun, Kurze-Geismar-Str. 9, entrance Am Wochenmarkt, Tue–Thu(Fri–Sat) 17–23(24)
• Apex, Burgstr. 46, Tue–Sat 17:30–24
• Bistro Cichon im Méliès, Bürgerstr. 13, Tue–Sat 17:30–21, in August 18–20
• P-Café, Nikolaikirchhof 11, Tue,Wed,Sun(Thu–Sat) 10–18(22)
• Contigo, Lange-Geismar-Str. 51, Mon–Fri(Sat) 9:30–18:30(18)
• Weltladencafé, Nikolaistr. 10, Mon–Sat 10–18
• Cichon Wein & Delikatessen, Lotzestr. 23, Mon–Fri(Sat) 10–19(18)
• Hope, Groner-Tor-Str. 29a, Mon–Fri(Sat) 9(10)–17:30(18)
• Haferkater, Bahnhofspl. 1, Mon–Fri(Sat–Sun) 6(8)–20

Closed

• Dabis Kaffeestube, Rote Str. 39 (coffee house)

Göttingen: Sustainable, organic and eco fashion

I may be biased but I find it easier to spot sustainable fashion boutiques in smaller cities with a university than elsewhere, and Göttingen is no exception.

It's the only West-German city with a branch of the colourful Mrs. Hippie chain (the other branches are in Dresden, Erfurt, Leipzig and Magdeburg). As the name suggests, colourful loose-fitting comfort fashion made from fibres of natural origin dominates the shop. The prices here are moderate, but to be affordable for smaller purses the shop makes compromises: While fabrics made from organic cotton or linen are available, there's also a lot of viscose (usually not made with the eco-friendly lyocell process). Recyclability (which would require mono-materials) is not in the focus (many pieces contain rayon/elastane), but sustainable production, preferably in Europe, definitely is.

If sustainable brands are important to you, you'll find a lot of both, established and less known brands at Fresh Lollipop. All pieces here are fairly produced, both, with respect to the working conditions of the growers of natural fibres, the producers of the fabrics and the textile workers. The fabrics are either mono-materials, recycled and/or certified organic, to work into the direction of cradle-to-cradle processes. In the few cases where polymere mono-materials are used in washable textiles, only new PE and nylon is used to minimise microplastics abrasion in the washing machine. Apart from clothes and shoes for all sexes, bags, rucksacks and other accessories are being sold on two floors. There's a second shop in Kassel.

For organic clothes for babies, toddlers and younger children simply cross the street where you find Sperling Mode & Natur. The crammed, yet cosy shop has a long history: It was established in 1983. It also sells a small selection for women and uni-sex accessories. If you come with smaller kids, there's a small table where they can draw and colour.

Whether you are generally prefering long-lasting artisanal (and as a consequence more expensive) clothing made from natural materials of highest quality or simply like to spend time in a carefully curated boutique for the distinguished bourgeois, take a break at Woggon. Clothes, shoes, bags and other accessories are beautifully presented in a wood-and-brick showroom with a beautiful staircase, everything nicely arranged with carefully choosen details: a book here, a typewriter there. The service is impeccable, and as another customer exclaimed: "It's difficult not to buy a nice thing here." The shop also serves as a beautiful venue for concerts and readings.

Long-lasting clothes from natural fibres, often organic and often made from mono-materials can be found at the outlet of the Freiburg-based sustainable web and post order shop Waschbär – at least until October, 31st 2024 when the shop is going to be closed.

Fairly traded accessories and jewellery of beautiful and long lasting quality can also be obtained from the Contigo fair trade boutique.

• Mrs. Hippie, Zindelstr. 8, Mon–Fri(Sat) 10–19(18)
• Fresh_Lollipop, Rote Str. 12, Mon–Sat 10–18
• Sperling Mode & Natur, Rote Str. 30, Mon–Sat 10:30–18
• Woggon, Barfüßerstr. 1, Mon–Fri(Sat) 9:30–19(18)

Göttingen: Organic ice-cream

Little is more comforting in the warm season than a stroll with an arisanal ice-cream in a wafer cone. Unfortunately this fairly innocent pleasure has almost become a luxury due to the significant increase in price we've seen in the past years. In the inner city of Göttingen a scoop of ice-cream made from organic milk comes at 1.90 EUR in 2024.

My favourite comes from Helados Inti, the ice-cream bar of Café Inti, next to the Bioladen in der Burgstraße which is less sweet than its competitor. Apart from the usual flavours they offered a delightful cottage cheese ice-cream. Needless to say that they also offer several fruit sorbets as a vegan option. You should however don't come (too) late: By 10pm the staff will have prepared everything for closing, and the ice-cream seems to disappear first.

While nothing at the "Helados Inti" shop hints the use of organic ingredients, the ice-cream shop of the Preferita pizzeria cum cafe in the Kurze-Geismar-Straße pedestrian zone proudly advertises the use of organic milk. However, without this I wouldn't have guessed the main ingredient was organic as the flavours are not allowed to speak for themselves but are drowned in sweetness, and the flavouring agents are definitely not organic. However, the ice-cream doesn't seem to be "enhanced" with "magic powders". In additions to the milk-based ice-creams there are vegan fruit varieties. The cafe itself offers organic juices and even an organic amaro.

Next to St. Nikolai church opposite the "Weltladen" a small almost invisible ice-cream parlour offers "ice-cream from [whitespace] milk". The whitespace grasped my attention, so I asked the owner who hesitatingly hinted that not only the milk but also the sugar would be organic. However, since his shop dubbed Smiles doesn't have an organic certificate he isn't allowed to advertise this. He seemed to have experienced an unpleasant situation with the authorities related to the attribute that in the past had filled the void.

His ice-cream comes in unusual flavours like "something with fruit and ananas" or "orange biscuits". It's 10 cents more expensive than the shops described above and also a little too sweet to my taste. But the red-white whisper phone at the entrance is worth this little extra! It leads to a plastic playground booth inside the shop where children are invited to play ice-cream seller and receive the "orders" via the phone.

• Helados Inti, Burgstr. 17, Mon–Sat(Sun/PH) 9(10)–21:30
• La Preferita, Kurze-Geismar-Str. 11, daily 11–20
• Smiles, Nikolaistr. 21, Tue–Sat(Sun) 12(14)–19(18)

Germany: Göttingen

The university town of Göttingen can easily be reached by ICE (and IC) long distance trains, and is a wonderful start (or end) point for many bike routes. One of them is the bike route "Dransfelder Rampe" connecting Göttingen and Hannoversch Münden – in the past by train, now by bicycle. Hann. Münden again is the start/end point of the Werratalradweg along the river Werra. When you exit the Göttingen Hauptbahnhof via the main entrance in direction city centre you'll find a sgn post pointing to "Radfernwege" at the left hand side of the forecourt, guiding you into the direction of the long distance bike routes.

• Zero waste, groceries and tea shops
• Cafes and restaurants
• Ice-cream
• Fashion